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Buy your liner fabric based on the intensity of the light you are trying to block.When I did this project I actually didn’t realize there was such a thing as a blind hem foot, and just used my regular presser foot, while sewing carefully – I think I used the inside curve of the foot as a guide. Fold the top (both the liner fabric and the DF) over 1” and press, and 3 more inches and press again. Hang your curtain and step back and admire your brilliant (and lasting! Feel free to add your own recommendations and/or corrections to my instructions in the comments (I really appreciate these, so don’t hold back!My hem was perhaps a teensy bit more wobbly than it would have been otherwise, but I think it turned out fine) Here’s my hem, all set up for me to sew it up with my super-special blind hem stitch (Actually I have a very basic machine, so I imagine nearly all machines have this stitch or something comparable or better. It thinks that it’s a super special blind hem stitch, and we might as well let it. This isn’t tricky at all – just turn both your DF and the liner right side together (as if you were making a pillow), and sew up both sides. You will have extra DF; make your crease with 2” (on either side) of the extra DF. Next, you want to sew a seam all the way down both sides, to hold the crease you just made in place. Sew along the bottom of this tube, making a tube that is about 3” tall. I would recommend it on that point alone, although I also very much appreciate the economical points as well. Anyway, as I go from changing a diaper to washing the dishes, it’s nice to have a reminder that some of my efforts stick around for a bit longer.In my world of work that is constantly undone, it’s so nice to have something that I can look at that I can think to myself, “Yeah! When buying fabric for curtains, I recommend splurging and buying the fabric that you really want, not just whatever is cheapest.
They sell “black out” liner, good especially in bedrooms where you want to block out the maximum amount of light.